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Beauty is more about connection than vanity

Sensitivities to Mascara

1/15/2020

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It seems more and more of my clients and friends are developing sensitivities to eye color cosmetics, usually mascara and/or eyeliner. Have I found a mascara that is safe for all to use? No. Mascara has several problematic ingredients: shellac (maybe listed as polymer on label) in one study on contact dermatitis was found to be the key sensitizing ingredient. Another probable correlation exists with nickel allergy and mascara (and curlers). Nickel won't show up on the ingredient list because it results as an impurity in a raw material used to produce another ingredient.  We know the thinner skin on our eyelids allows chemicals to go into the skin at a faster rate making contact dermatitis common around the eyes. This same article states that sweat allows chemicals to penetrate even easier.  All mascaras have some kind of pigment, even the "natural" ones. That is how they darken your lashes so if you are sensitive to those you'll have a harder time. Then there is the possibility of reacting to the preservatives. Preservatives are crucial in a formulation like mascara, and even with them you need to pitch yours every three months.
Take homes:
1.) The more you use a product the higher the chance you will develop a sensitivity to it. This makes sense because you don't hear this as much with younger people. Do you really need to wear mascara every day? Definitely don't exercise/steam or sauna with it. Be sure to remove all of it every night. 
Don't be stubborn and rely on the old "I've always used this and it's always worked for me." Things change and YOU change.
2.) You won't find a mascara to move to just by shopping cleaner brands or reading labels. You'll have an easier time if you are a cosmetic chemist but most of us it will be trial and error--or trial and learn as my Dad says. Especially considering raw materials (the ingredients in the ingredients) can be big unknowns. I have an earlier post about the FDA's role in cosmetics. Use your best sleuthing skills. If you also react to your eyeliner or other product, see if you can find a common ingredient.  Some brands have started carrying sample or travel sizes, so take advantage.
3.) Keep me posted on your trials. We can learn from each other and maybe (just maybe because we are all different) shortcut someone's tedious process. Meanwhile, if you can't go natural, curl those lashes to open up your eyes. If you have no nickel allergy use a metal crimper or try one of the heated models, like this one from blinc.
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Beauty Rituals for Every Body

8/8/2019

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I love the simplicity of summer. Hair loosely fashioned on top of my head. A cute dress. No socks.
Meals are easier; fruit and vegetables abound, my husband’s running the grill and if we have a late dinner it doesn’t feel like bedtime.


I like my beauty routines to be simple as well.
These are my favorite family skincare and first aid staples.
All, except the hair towel, I retail.


  1. A bar of really good artisan soap. This was a hard one at first. Beauty school taught us that bar soap was bad. Generalizations such as that can rarely be true. (I believe that statement itself may have been a generalization) Soap made from plant oils infused with skin loving herbs, such as this one from Infuse Organics was a game changer for me. I love that there is no wasteful packaging. I mostly use on my body but it is kind to the face, as well. For those of you that like to cleanse your face in the shower this is a one and done. However, if you are only cleansing your face in the morning, we need to talk about a pre-cleansing oil or a creamy cleanser you can use (mostly without water) with slow intention and self-massage at night. I really like the ritual of washing away the day before sleep. "The day, however it may have been, is now over and tomorrow will again be imperfect but new."
  2. An ayate exfoliating cloth. If you ever loved a loofah only to see, weeks later, the mold grow, this will bring you back to the joy of shower exfoliating. A loosely hand-woven cloth of agave. Isn’t agave neat? I mean, tequila, a low glycemic index sweetener and a washcloth! You do so much for us agave. It dries between uses if hung up in the shower and also can be laundered with your towels. I can get around 9 months of use from one. I use it with my bar soap all over my body--a bit too abrasive for the face, neck and decollete though. Your body moisturizer will be more effective if you first slough off the dead cells. I find scrub products too messy and potentially hazardous for weekly use. Falls are the 3rd leading cause of unintentional injury related deaths. Just ask my husband why we have no throw rugs! https://www.nsc.org/home-safety/safety-topics/older-adult-falls
  3. A microfiber hair wrap. I comb my hair with a wide toothed comb in the shower while the conditioner is on. My hair stylist, bringing a bit of slow beauty to hair care, taught me this. After rinsing and getting out of the shower, I give my hair a gentle squeeze and wrap it up so I can move on to moisturizing my body with my hair out of the way. Meanwhile the wrap is gently drying my hair some. I also use it when I am using a deep conditioning treatment. This newer, wiry grey hair of mine needs soothed and I, for the first time, have become a user of such products. Any recommendations?
  4. Plain jojoba oil. I towel off in a way that looks more like blotting than rubbing. We want to intentionally leave some of that water there. I pour about a teaspoon of the oil in my palm, rub between my hands and apply to one leg. Repeat on the other side and I split a similar puddle size between my arms. Over time you will figure out the puddle size you need for the parts of your body. Use a little more on your chest and get what you can on your back or enlist a helper. (This can make the difference of itchiness or not in the winter for me) The key is to do your moisturizing (oil/lotion/cream) within 3 minutes of toweling off. That’s not much time, so get in the habit of doing it straight away. This is advice from a dermatologist, to keep in the skin the water from showering or bathing. Water and oil, our barrier is made of this. If you aren’t yet over 40, get in the habit now because this all matters more and more as we age and or skin degrades. Jojoba is chemically a liquid wax (now remember kids, chemical is NOT a bad word) and very similar to our own sebum and has a long shelf life to boot. I also use it to remove eye makeup.
  5. Dr. Alkaitis Organic Soothing Gel. Inflammation from eczema, acne, rosacea is soothed. Razor burn, ingrown hair, tender waxed areas are no match for this antibacterial yet hydrating magic. If using on your face, think of it as your treatment layer if your skin is dry, as you will need an oil or cream on top. All around first aid item for any boo-boos; burns, bites, stings etc. Lovingly gift this to a man in your life that thinks skin care is girly. The simple green bottle, herbal aromas and refreshing gel texture will have him thinking you are a genius for knowing his wants so well. It is the perfect aftershave.
  6. Mantle Skincare (my private label) Lavender Clay Masque. Another first aid family product. I’ve sent so many clients home with a dab of this for spot treating small areas post extraction and also to help draw things out of the skin. It is that drawing and drying that makes it a great choice for ingrown hairs, pimples, stings and bites. Insects not only poke us but they leave behind a little of their own goo that lingers and irritates.
  7. Balm Bar--another stellar Infuse Organics product. How I use it: lip balm (in the treatment room too) and hand balm. I adore the eco push-up tube for quick slathering of my lips. Bonus if you rock climb or play guitar, while softening your skin it will not remove your calluses. Another all around soother--scratches, bites etc. So many wonderful butters, herbs and essential oils. I rub the stick on my dry (clean please) neglected cuticles. It really heals so much. Unlike the above clay, this is invisible on the skin so it can work hard for you in public just as well as in the privacy of your home. Balm Bar is also loved by dudes. In fact, it was the formulator's father insisted she share this product more broadly.
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Hydrosols: The misty part of the facial

10/8/2018

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Hydrosols are the water by-product from steam distilling essential oils, but they aren't just water, they are better because they contain the chemical constitutes of the plant with all of its active phytonutrients. By misting with a hydrosol after I've removed your mask I am rehydrating your skin. Following with a facial oil or moisturizer, while still damp, I am recreating the top layer of the skin, the acid mantle, which is made of of lipids (oil) and water. The acid mantle is critical to healthy skin. It is why I named my private line Mantle Skincare. I expect I'll see more dehydrated skin once it cools off outside and the heat goes on inside. Hydrosols are also in many of my facial mists I retail for home care. Take one home to add to your regime. It may be the ticket for balanced skin, boosting the results from your moisturizer and possibly allowing you to use a lighter one.
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On Being "All Natural"

10/8/2014

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It is all natural, right? I get this question from clients and friends frequently. They know me and my history of really delving into ingredient lists; of skin products/cosmetics and food.

A couple of points to keep in mind:

Natural is a word that is difficult to define. It is not regulated by the FDA* so it holds little meaning on labels on cosmetics and food. Of course some companies hold very high standards of purity and wholeness and for them it absolutely has meaning. The job for us is to decipher who those companies are.

You can read more about high standards to which I hold my Mantle Skincare products in an earlier (6/28/2013) blog post.

It is a rare bird that cooks every thing from scratch with organic whole foods, and relies solely upon the cosmetic chemistry of her own kitchen for skin care. Even fewer allow their faces to be adorned only with color achieved by pinching their cheeks and eating berries. Most of us allow concessions for some conveniences and shortcuts when it comes to the food we eat and the products we use.

*The FDA’s site states: The FDA has not developed a definition for use of the term natural or its derivatives. However, the agency has not objected to the use of the term if the food does not contain added color, artificial flavors, or synthetic substances. Furthermore the FDA has very little to do with cosmetic regulations. FD&C (Federal Food Drug & Cosmetic) Act does not authorize FDA to approve cosmetic ingredients except for color additives. FDA oversees compliance but doesn’t require approval before marketed. (The FDA regulates sunscreen, because of its classification as an over-the-counter drug.)

So “natural” has little meaning and you can’t count on the Feds to monitor the millions of ingredients that go into products for the skin. They aren’t equipped to do it. They not only are likely to make a mess of it if they tried, but also would make it very difficult for the smaller companies to make products, especially from plants because their chemistry is complex.

Notice I don’t describe things as toxic, dirty or full-of-chemicals.

I am a chemistry teacher’s daughter. Water is a chemical. Chemical is not a dirty word. 

Plants are full of biologically active chemicals. 
Chemical-free is a misnomer, a marketing tool and certainly not a guarantee of safety.


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What about the make-up I carry? Does it have synthetic ingredients?

10/8/2014

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Depends on the line, and I sell a selection from about seven lines. Tell me of your sensitivities, allergies and preferences and I can make suggestions. Let me apply some things and have you leave it on for a “test drive.”

Personally, I haven’t had to be very strict. For now, in my skincare and my makeup I avoid sodium lauryl sulfate, petroleum oil and synthetic fragrances.

Here are some key observations I have made while testing loads and loads of cosmetics:

Generally long-wearing products have sophisticated synthetic ingredients (fine-tuned in laboratories) that make them that way; able to really stick to the skin and repel water. Mineral powders made of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are an exception, being naturally water-resistant. This is why they are so popular--fewer ingredients and long-wearing. They are not, however, organic and “all natural” in the strict definition despite the marketing claims.


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    Author

    Amy Linville is an artist and esthetician that believes simple, sustainable and non-rushed daily skincare and beauty rituals are the foundation for finding comfort in your skin and looks, no matter your age.

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