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Over the past 8 months I’ve been trying out the Yuka App on my phone. It provides health ratings for food and personal care items that contain barcodes. Imperfect as it is, I do allow it to influence some of my choices when shopping at the grocery store. One of the complaints that critics have is that it doesn’t take into account nuances like how much of an unwanted additive is present. So even an additive considered safe in low quantities will adversely and disproportionately lower the rating score.
When the app gave the Babo Daily Sheer Fluid Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 that I have been using and selling, a poor rating, I had to know more. The ingredient they didn’t like was Butyloctyl Salicylate, which is listed in the inactive ingredient list. Quick refresher: In the US, SPF products are required to list the sunscreen ingredients, physical or chemical as “actives” and everything else in the formulation as “inactives”. Typically the inactive list with SPF products is in alphabetical order, however with this Babo sunscreen ingredients are listed in descending order of predominance by weight, as non-sunscreen skincare lists them. I prefer this as it gives you more information about the formula. So what is the issue with this ingredient? It is a chemical UV filter, which I haven’t 100% been opposed to. You may recall an early (I don’t like their current formulations) version of a Blue Lizard facial sunscreen, that I liked and sold, that had both physical blockers and chemical absorbers/filters. By not disclosing this as a sunscreen active it is not subject to the same regulations as UV filters are and the label can say “mineral sunscreen” which is what "green beauty" and sensitive skin types are looking for. They also do not have to disclose the percentage of the ingredient in the formula this way. Feels a little manipulative. We should be used to this by now. Turns out many brands are doing this very thing with their sunscreen formulations. Personally, I am not afraid of this product and will continue to use it for now. I am trusting that the company is staying below the maximum concentration limit that this ingredient would be held to if it were listed as an “active”. Also, the product is “Environmental Working Group Verified” which means that this product meets the EWG's strictest standards for health and safety and avoids their ingredients of concern. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has been researching, rating, and tracking chemical safety since it was founded in 1993. So they have been at this far longer than Yuka. In 2004 they launched Skin Deep®, their cosmetics database. Again, imperfect and especially criticized for the presence of buying links which obviously have a monetary advantage for EWG. Please note that the label claim of “Reef Safe” on some sunscreens is not a regulated term. Similar to “natural” it has no real measurable meaning. Safe to say Babo knew better than to make that claim since Butyloctyl Salicylate is in the same chemical family as Octisalate, a more familiar UV filter and one that is known to be unsafe for aquatic life. Salicylates are not recommended for people with Aspirin allergies. To be on the safe side, I would also avoid this product if pregnant or nursing since it is a potential (again, at what level of exposure?) disruptor of the endocrine system.
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Transforming Touch® is also called Transforming the Experience-based Brain, or TEB for short. This will allow me to better address adverse experiences or "ruptures" that happened during my clients' lives as embryos, babies and young children. Though it effectively soothes those who had later adverse experiences as well so they can heal in relationship. The creator, Stephen Terrell, Psychologist, teacher, healer and author has evolved and continues to tweak the work to stay up-to-date with new information that enters the fields of psychology, trauma and neuroscience. The locations for each gentle static contact reflect his deep knowing and experience of more than 25,000 sessions.
It's complementary to my craniosacral practice (BCST) and is especially helpful to those whose nervous system's love the predictability of a protocol that I can describe in steps before I even touch them. Just like with BCST, you can talk, not talk, express emotions or not, be still or twitchy. It is all welcome and supported. Done with client fully dressed on a massage table. Safe and appropriate for all ages. I will complete all the training in June of this year! Did you know I have a limited number of shorter, one-time free, intro sessions each month for Transforming Touch® or BCST? I also offer online nervous system sessions using intentional, rather than hands-on touch. Yes this works and is ideal for clients who feel unsafe with close in-person contact. If you or a loved one could use some support please reach out at 614-321-9202. My desire to be a registered (BCST) therapist and bring the work to others came from personal experience receiving the work. In spite of leading, what appeared to be, a charmed and unquestionably privileged life, the head and neck pain I had my whole life persisted. I never once thought about my nervous system--let alone considered that it was dysregulated and keeping me stuck with a way of living that was far from my potential.
Then I learned about trauma*. Like many, I thought I hadn’t experienced any trauma. I started to understand that smaller, cumulative traumas were undigested in my body and since we are bodies that is what mattered. That overwhelm is overwhelm whether I judged it as trauma or not. That even pre-birth and birth process events can still be unresolved and impede health. I couldn’t learn and think my way out of this if I tried. All the adjustments, massages and yoga classes alone could not ease my pain. First my body needed to know safety and I needed to know what it felt like to feel it. I have found the work to be vital in processing old and recent undigested stress and trauma, lessening pain and stiffness and bringing a sense of well-being that extends to all aspects of my life. I also schedule it to provide nervous system support around common stressors, such as surgeries, dental work, grief and loss. Read more about the work here. *"Trauma may begin as acute stress from a perceived life-threat or as the end product of cumulative stress. Both types of stress can seriously impair a person’s ability to function with resilience and ease. Trauma may result from a wide variety of stressors such as accidents, invasive medical procedures, sexual or physical assault, emotional abuse, neglect, war, natural disasters, loss, birth trauma, or the corrosive stressors of ongoing fear and conflict."--Peter Levine I say this not to take us off the hook for our shared responsibility but rather to refrain from judging ourselves and others too harshly. We just haven't had the experience to react and behave flawlessly. Also the recovering perfectionist in me needs to hear it. Our culture loves an enemy to direct its rage (undigested trauma) upon so this virus is getting the treatment! As big thinker/writer Charles Eisenstein says, “If there is one thing our civilization is good at, it is fighting an enemy." In this same jaw-dropping essay he says and asks “Covid demonstrates the power of our collective will when we agree on what is important. What else might we achieve, in coherency?" It's a long essay so make yourself some tea and block out some time. It is worth it. I think he is wise. I hope you are well and able to connect to your loved ones. Each of you have ventured out in your own way. I respect everyone’s pace. I have found that each reintroduction may bring up some anxiety but with practice I have found more ease. Grocery stores for example. In April and May I was doing pick-up and delivery. Now I am not only back in the stores but slowing down, reading labels and bagging my own groceries--where they will let me. What are you doing now that in April seemed unthinkable? That is resiliency! Like me you may have once thought the reminder that others have it worse is useful under times of stress. Well intended but I find it not helpful as a strategy to manage stress day to day, moment to moment. I suggest this IChill app, not flashy or advanced, just a simple and easy way to introduce strategies that you can use, in real time in the moments you need it--so unlike that old shaming mindset. The above logo is the property of The Trauma Resource Institute, the owner of the above mentioned IChill app. If you aren’t already, join me in saying Physical Distancing in place of Social Distancing. This is an important distinction. My goal as the weather cools down is to bundle up and toughen up. Keep walking even when it’s cold, keep meeting with friends in my garage or outdoors when the sun or a fire can warm us or we’re lucky enough to have an unseasonably warm day. I know that keeping connected socially is important. What are you doing for yourself in these challenging times? What are your resources? Could I again be a resource for you?
Please reach out. 614-321-9202. I recently found this article online that matched my distaste for Quaternary ammonium compounds, otherwise known as "quats". Though ubiquitous in homes, healthcare and salons, they do not have a good profile for safe use--linked with hormone disruption and fertility issues and of course not earth friendly! We know that healthcare and salon settings require powerful disinfectants but why use them at home? Wondering if your household cleaner contains "quats"? The article outlines all the names to look for on your label as well as making a case for getting them out of not only our homes but also our schools where children are entrusted in our care. (I don't even want to get started on my heartbreak for our children right now.) It persists on surfaces so the exposure is not limited to just the person doing the cleaning.
Of course my skin business complies with the State Board of Cosmetology’s rules. I am happy to have found a new, safer EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant in time for reopening my business. It is called Rejuvenate and is made with Activated Hydrogen Peroxide. It is Green Seal and GreenGuard certified. This is what I will be disinfecting my work stations and all frequently touched surfaces with in the building. Consumer labels are confusing. For example don’t assume all Chlorox products contain bleach. Many contain quats so if you are cleaning up after C-diff they will not be effective. It has to be bleach, with the active ingredient sodium hypochlorite. Also I learned that the splashless Chorox bleach is not a disinfectant. It has to say disinfecting on the label. If you go this route, mix at the ratio of 4 teaspoons per quart of water. The contact or wet time needs to be one minute and the solution needs to be replaced after 24 hours. See CDC guidelines for details. Always read labels. The wet or contact time is also the “kill” time which is true for quats as well. Bleach is problematic too. If, after considering the risks, you are going to use these products, know that just spraying and wiping will not do the job. I already felt we were becoming a "too clean" society and I wonder if after this initial Covid-19 season, we will see a revenge of "super bugs", resistant to everything we currently have. Do your part and get them out of your home if you can. It seems more and more of my clients and friends are developing sensitivities to eye color cosmetics, usually mascara and/or eyeliner. Have I found a mascara that is safe for all to use? No. Mascara has several problematic ingredients: shellac (maybe listed as polymer on label) in one study on contact dermatitis was found to be the key sensitizing ingredient. Another probable correlation exists with nickel allergy and mascara (and curlers). Nickel won't show up on the ingredient list because it results as an impurity in a raw material used to produce another ingredient. We know the thinner skin on our eyelids allows chemicals to go into the skin at a faster rate making contact dermatitis common around the eyes. This same article states that sweat allows chemicals to penetrate even easier. All mascaras have some kind of pigment, even the "natural" ones. That is how they darken your lashes so if you are sensitive to those you'll have a harder time. Then there is the possibility of reacting to the preservatives. Preservatives are crucial in a formulation like mascara, and even with them you need to pitch yours every three months.
Take homes: 1.) The more you use a product the higher the chance you will develop a sensitivity to it. This makes sense because you don't hear this as much with younger people. Do you really need to wear mascara every day? Definitely don't exercise/steam or sauna with it. Be sure to remove all of it every night. Don't be stubborn and rely on the old "I've always used this and it's always worked for me." Things change and YOU change. 2.) You won't find a mascara to move to just by shopping cleaner brands or reading labels. You'll have an easier time if you are a cosmetic chemist but most of us it will be trial and error--or trial and learn as my Dad says. Especially considering raw materials (the ingredients in the ingredients) can be big unknowns. I have an earlier post about the FDA's role in cosmetics. Use your best sleuthing skills. If you also react to your eyeliner or other product, see if you can find a common ingredient. Some brands have started carrying sample or travel sizes, so take advantage. 3.) Keep me posted on your trials. We can learn from each other and maybe (just maybe because we are all different) shortcut someone's tedious process. Meanwhile, if you can't go natural, curl those lashes to open up your eyes. If you have no nickel allergy use a metal crimper or try one of the heated models, like this one from blinc. I love the simplicity of summer. Hair loosely fashioned on top of my head. A cute dress. No socks. Meals are easier; fruit and vegetables abound, my husband’s running the grill and if we have a late dinner it doesn’t feel like bedtime. I like my beauty routines to be simple as well. These are my favorite family skincare and first aid staples. All, except the hair towel, I retail.
Hydrosols are the water by-product from steam distilling essential oils, but they aren't just water, they are better because they contain the chemical constitutes of the plant with all of its active phytonutrients. By misting with a hydrosol after I've removed your mask I am rehydrating your skin. Following with a facial oil or moisturizer, while still damp, I am recreating the top layer of the skin, the acid mantle, which is made of of lipids (oil) and water. The acid mantle is critical to healthy skin. It is why I named my private line Mantle Skincare. I expect I'll see more dehydrated skin once it cools off outside and the heat goes on inside. Hydrosols are also in many of my facial mists I retail for home care. Take one home to add to your regime. It may be the ticket for balanced skin, boosting the results from your moisturizer and possibly allowing you to use a lighter one.
If you or your child has a lighted magnifying mirror BEWARE. It is exponentially easier to go too far with eyebrows and skin. You are viewing yourself at an unnatural range. Trained artists know that you must take breaks from intense focus and step back from your art and view it from a more distant perspective. This is key to remember. I know strong mirrors can be helpful and necessary to see hairs but SOME PEOPLE should not have these tools.If you or someone you love starts overdoing with eyebrows or habitually picking at skin, it is time to consider letting that accessory go and scheduling an appointment with me.
What do I recommend for at home? I like my small round suction cup magnifying mirror attached to my bathroom mirror. It isn’t high magnification; I can not sit and use it, thereby shortening my time in front of it. I even have it in a bathroom that I don’t use to apply makeup. I may do a quick check in it after I am done getting ready, to brush off a hair from a makeup brush or clean up a mascara smudge, but then I get on with my day. You guessed it, I have learned the hard way that I am better off without a high magnification mirror. |
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Amy Linville is an artist and esthetician that believes simple, sustainable and non-rushed daily skincare and beauty rituals are the foundation for finding comfort in your skin and looks, no matter your age. Archives
May 2026
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Photos from Pen Waggener, Brett Jordan, Steve A Johnson
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