Find your skin condition on the Dr. Alkaitis site and follow their recommendations, which like mine, allow for flexibility and experimentation. Listen to your skin and tweak. Sometimes you may do one thing in the morning and another at night or you may alternate days. Remember these products are adaptogenic. The intermingling of ingredients adapt to your skin’s unique needs.
 
Yes, it is recommended to use the oil at night on oily, combination and blemished skin to balance oil production. It is lightweight and will not clog pores. It is a luxury to use this oil while giving yourself a facial massage. (Something I especially recommend for non-fragile mature skin).
 
Their site has great suggestions for mixing and alternating products. It is not a hard fast rule that you must tone after cleansing. The toner is recommended for large pores and for soothing sunburn specifically. If your skin is inflamed or red (not from sunburn) skip toning and apply the Gel pre-moisturizer instead.
 
Have dry skin and have the Gel in your travel kit?
Use it as a first aid product on anything you tend to grab an antibacterial product for. It has the word Soothing in the name! If you were mixing the Oil and Toner and the Toner has run out, mix the Gel and Oil together as a beautiful serum layer during the day. Serums are applied after cleansing and before moisturizing.
 
Cleanser notes:
Cleansing should not be rushed so keep the water off and only turn it on to wet fingers periodically and at the end to rinse.
 
This cleanser is different! It might replace other home exfoliating products as it is excellent at removing impurities and invigorating skin. I occasionally rub some between my fingers and spread undiluted on dry skin. (Do not do this if you are sensitive or are inflamed with rosacea or acne. Use wet fingertips instead.) Begin wetting fingers and slowly emulsifying the soap so it stays fluid on the skin. Keep moving it about. When it won’t glide, wet fingertips again and move it about again. Don’t rush and keep away from eyes. Now, after a minute or two of the above pattern, rinse thoroughly, ending with a cool splash and pat dry. Your face will be tingly with a rush of blood.
 
Note: Mineral sunscreens and/or makeup can be removed first with an Oil Cleanser or Jojoba Oil and wiped off if the Dr. Alkaitis Cleanser doesn’t remove adequately. Never use the Dr. Alkaitis Cleanser to remove eye makeup.

The Beauty Sort-Out is 90-minute service that is a makeup application and discussion using your cosmetics and brushes from home with products from my kit, some of which I retail. Brand names that I sell include Lavera, Mineral Hygienics, Glominerals and Blinc. Be introduced to makeup, brushes and techniques that complement what you already have while gaining clarity about what is working and what is not. We all know it doesn't matter where the item was purchased or how much you paid, for that matter. The criteria; does it agree with your skin and serve a purpose toward the greater good of your look?

​I will also cover best practices for preparing the skin with oils, serums and moisturizers and sunscreens, including the order of layering multiple products.
 
This playful interaction will expand your range and address challenges brought on by various skin conditions, including aging, acne and rosacea. I believe that your skin and beauty rituals need adjusting from time to time, just as it is necessary to change your nutrition and ways of moving and exercising the body. Many women are stuck doing what they have always done and can benefit from some tweaking.
 
Enjoy what department and makeup specialty stores do not offer; a clean and beautiful private room, skin care advice from a mature esthetician, and the eye of an artist who holds a BFA (Bachelor of Fine Arts).
 
Proper technique for washing and caring for makeup brushes is demonstrated on one or more of your brushes, as time permits.
 
Pack your bag and get creative with me!

It is all natural, right? I get this question from clients and friends frequently. They know me and my history of really delving into ingredient lists; of skin products/cosmetics and food.

A couple of points to keep in mind:

Natural is a word that is difficult to define. It is not regulated by the FDA* so it holds little meaning on labels on cosmetics and food. Of course some companies hold very high standards of purity and wholeness and for them it absolutely has meaning. The job for us is to decipher who those companies are.

You can read more about high standards to which I hold my Mantle Skincare products in an earlier (6/28/2013) blog post.

It is a rare bird that cooks every thing from scratch with organic whole foods, and relies solely upon the cosmetic chemistry of her own kitchen for skin care. Even fewer allow their faces to be adorned only with color achieved by pinching their cheeks and eating berries. Most of us allow concessions for some conveniences and shortcuts when it comes to the food we eat and the products we use.

*The FDA’s site states: The FDA has not developed a definition for use of the term natural or its derivatives. However, the agency has not objected to the use of the term if the food does not contain added color, artificial flavors, or synthetic substances. Furthermore the FDA has very little to do with cosmetic regulations. FD&C (Federal Food Drug & Cosmetic) Act does not authorize FDA to approve cosmetic ingredients except for color additives. FDA oversees compliance but doesn’t require approval before marketed. (The FDA regulates sunscreen, because of its classification as an over-the-counter drug.)

So “natural” has little meaning and you can’t count on the Feds to monitor the millions of ingredients that go into products for the skin. They aren’t equipped to do it. They not only are likely to make a mess of it if they tried, but also would make it very difficult for the smaller companies to make products, especially from plants because their chemistry is complex.

Notice I don’t describe things as toxic, dirty or full-of-chemicals.

I am a chemistry teacher’s daughter. Water is a chemical. Chemical is not a dirty word. 

Depends on the line, and I sell a selection from about seven lines. Tell me of your sensitivities, allergies and preferences and I can make suggestions. Let me apply some things and have you leave it on for a “test drive.”

Personally, I haven’t had to be very strict. For now, in my skincare and my makeup I avoid sodium lauryl sulfate, petroleum oil and synthetic fragrances.

Here are some key observations I have made while testing loads and loads of cosmetics:

Generally long-wearing products have sophisticated synthetic ingredients (fine-tuned in laboratories) that make them that way; able to really stick to the skin and repel water. Mineral powders made of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are an exception, being naturally water-resistant. This is why they are so popular--fewer ingredients and long-wearing. They are not, however, organic and “all natural” in the strict definition despite the marketing claims.

For Spring dances, my 30-minute makeup application service is $35; 45-minute service (needed if doing false lash flairs or full coverage foundation) is $45. 

My goal is always to allow the skin to glow. 
The make-up is merely an enhancement. 

Most girls need only a tinted moisturizer, BB cream or spot concealing for foundation. For this occasion, I will be avoiding mineral SPF foundations to reduce "flashback" with photography.

Book now for your best choice of times. 614.321.9202

To help girls with make-up, I share clippings of common "Statement Vibes" like Iconic (retro starlet, matte, kitten flick liner), Golden Haze (Luminous, warm, bronzy browns & plums) , Rock Chick (heavy dark lash line, silvery & cool, understated everywhere else) and Modern Simple (clean, fresh, on-trend color statements). They are welcome to share images and inspiration with me!

Models and celebrities move between and combine these classic looks but I believe each category has its muses that girls identify with.

1. Iconic: Lauren Conrad & Taylor Swift
   
2. Golden Haze: Jennifer Lopez & Mila Kunis
   
3. Rock Chick: Beyonce & Keira Knightly
   
4. Modern Simple: Kristen Bell & Emma Stone

Retin-A and Renova are both brand names for products with the active ingredient of tretinoin or retinoic acid or vitamin A acid. Generally speaking, Retin-A in its various strengths and forms are used for treating acne and Renova is used to treat fine wrinkles, spotty skin discoloration and rough feeling skin. Because the active is the same though, doctors prescribe them interchangeably sometimes. Renova is often the choice for dryer skin.

Many clients, with a suggestion from a physician, have tried prescription strength retinoids like Retin-A and Renova to mitigate the visible effects of aging only to find themselves not using them. Here are, what I believe to be, the reasons for this:

1.    They experience irritation, called retinoid dermatitis; redness, swelling, breakouts, flaking etc. so they stop before improvement of condition/s can be seen. 

2.    They aren’t getting support on how to use this complex skin care product properly (or they have forgotten) to minimize the irritation and maximize results. No one is looking at their whole skin care routine.

3.    They don’t realize that this has to be ongoing. To get the results, the product has to be used. Stop using the product and the effects are lost.

4.    They are advised to use daily sunscreen or avoid sun and they know they will not.

5.    They realize they can no longer safely do waxing for facial hair removal.

6.    Buying and using such a product does not match their values.

I was surprised to read clinical trial data on Renova recently. 24% of patients saw moderate improvement in Fine Wrinkling (36% saw no improvement), 38% saw moderate improvement in Mottled Hyperpigmentation (35% saw no improvement) and 16% saw moderate improvement in Tactile Skin Roughness (49% saw no improvement). Most improvement in the categories was noted during the first 24 weeks of therapy and maintained thereafter with continued use. Details can be found here. Pretty lack-luster results for an expensive high-maintenance product with un-established safety when used for more than 48 weeks.

If, after consideration, you decide to proceed with one of these products, I suggest a 24 week trial to look for signs of improvement. During the trial, follow these best practices:

I don’t like the term anti-aging. I understand the desire to turn back the clock but we need to be graceful and accepting with some aspects of aging. Resist media messages and sales people that use this fear to sell. Many products simply cannot do the things they claim to be able to do! A balanced life that includes whole food nutrition, ample physical activity, and deep connections with family & friends is key to a beauty that reflects health. Intuitively we know this.

How do I decide what I will use in treatments and retail? It takes me a great deal of time. 
For every hour I have spent with my hands on a client I have logged countless more reading, researching and sampling products. My collaboration with my formulator offers me extra confidence, as she also does her homework and has been at this for 16 years.
 
Yes, there are synthetic ingredients that I avoid but the risks of some of them have been overblown--yet another way fear is used to market to women.
“Natural” is the buzzword of the decade and it is important to know that the term isn’t regulated. I chuckle when I see advertising washed in green knowing that it consists of very commonplace ingredients, synthetics included. “Organic” is a term that is regulated, though commonly used without the proper certification. Many ingredients in my own line have met this distinction. Equally important to me is that they perform well, are affordable to many and their ingredient lists are non-manipulated and honest.

Botanicals can reduce inflammation, irritation & hyperpigmentation, improve tone, stimulate collagen, reduce cellular damage and aid in detoxification. They can address all the concerns that come with aging. They work gently for gradual, dependable, beautiful and sustainable results!

With my clients, these are the points I usually make regarding sunscreen:

Daily sunscreen use is essential when trying to minimize hyper-pigmentation especially after more aggressive treatments using acids, including my vitamin c facial.

Apply your sunscreen after allowing your moisturizer to sink in. Ten minutes or more. Make-up can be layered immediately over it.

Mineral physical blockers zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have a long history of being friendly to the body and are especially nice for sensitive and allergic types. They are also still the most effective sunscreen ingredients to date against the full UV spectrum. You will see a white cast, especially for the first 10 minutes, but this will fade with a good formulation.

Still searching for a perfect sunscreen with only physical blockers with a matte, non-sticky, non-white finish? Me too. Meanwhile trust that the sticky occlusive nature of zinc oxide is partly why it is so effective. On days when you are wearing zinc you will need to make sure the cleanser you are using is removing it thoroughly.

An SPF 30 does not supply twice the protection of an SPF 15. SPF 30 blocks approximately 97% of UVB rays (when used as instructed) and SPF 15 blocks approximately 94%. Remember the numbers come from the length of time you can be exposed and not burn. SPF 30 allows you to be out 30 times as long as you could be unprotected.  In the US our SPF numbers are based on UVB only. Though since 2011 if the product is labeled “broad spectrum” it has been tested and protects against UVB and UVA. A certain percentage of the protection must be from UVA to qualify for this distinction.