It is all natural, right? I get this question from clients and friends frequently. They know me and my history of really delving into ingredient lists; of skin products/cosmetics and food.

A couple of points to keep in mind:

Natural is a word that is difficult to define. It is not regulated by the FDA* so it holds little meaning on labels on cosmetics and food. Of course some companies hold very high standards of purity and wholeness and for them it absolutely has meaning. The job for us is to decipher who those companies are.

You can read more about high standards to which I hold my Mantle Skincare products in an earlier (6/28/2013) blog post.

It is a rare bird that cooks every thing from scratch with organic whole foods, and relies solely upon the cosmetic chemistry of her own kitchen for skin care. Even fewer allow their faces to be adorned only with color achieved by pinching their cheeks and eating berries. Most of us allow concessions for some conveniences and shortcuts when it comes to the food we eat and the products we use.

*The FDA’s site states: The FDA has not developed a definition for use of the term natural or its derivatives. However, the agency has not objected to the use of the term if the food does not contain added color, artificial flavors, or synthetic substances. Furthermore the FDA has very little to do with cosmetic regulations. FD&C (Federal Food Drug & Cosmetic) Act does not authorize FDA to approve cosmetic ingredients except for color additives. FDA oversees compliance but doesn’t require approval before marketed. (The FDA regulates sunscreen, because of its classification as an over-the-counter drug.)

So “natural” has little meaning and you can’t count on the Feds to monitor the millions of ingredients that go into products for the skin. They aren’t equipped to do it. They not only are likely to make a mess of it if they tried, but also would make it very difficult for the smaller companies to make products, especially from plants because their chemistry is complex.

Notice I don’t describe things as toxic, dirty or full-of-chemicals.

I am a chemistry teacher’s daughter. Water is a chemical. Chemical is not a dirty word. 

Depends on the line, and I sell a selection from about seven lines. Tell me of your sensitivities, allergies and preferences and I can make suggestions. Let me apply some things and have you leave it on for a “test drive.”

Personally, I haven’t had to be very strict. For now, in my skincare and my makeup I avoid sodium lauryl sulfate, petroleum oil and synthetic fragrances.

Here are some key observations I have made while testing loads and loads of cosmetics:

Generally long-wearing products have sophisticated synthetic ingredients (fine-tuned in laboratories) that make them that way; able to really stick to the skin and repel water. Mineral powders made of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are an exception, being naturally water-resistant. This is why they are so popular--fewer ingredients and long-wearing. They are not, however, organic and “all natural” in the strict definition despite the marketing claims.

For Spring dances, my 30-minute makeup application service is $35; 45-minute service (needed if doing false lash flairs or full coverage foundation) is $45. 

My goal is always to allow the skin to glow. 
The make-up is merely an enhancement. 

Most girls need only a tinted moisturizer, BB cream or spot concealing for foundation. For this occasion, I will be avoiding mineral SPF foundations to reduce "flashback" with photography.

Book now for your best choice of times. 614.321.9202

To help girls with make-up, I share clippings of common "Statement Vibes" like Iconic (retro starlet, matte, kitten flick liner), Golden Haze (Luminous, warm, bronzy browns & plums) , Rock Chick (heavy dark lash line, silvery & cool, understated everywhere else) and Modern Simple (clean, fresh, on-trend color statements). They are welcome to share images and inspiration with me!

Models and celebrities move between and combine these classic looks but I believe each category has its muses that girls identify with.

1. Iconic: Lauren Conrad & Taylor Swift
   
2. Golden Haze: Jennifer Lopez & Mila Kunis
   
3. Rock Chick: Beyonce & Keira Knightly
   
4. Modern Simple: Kristen Bell & Emma Stone

Retin-A and Renova are both brand names for products with the active ingredient of tretinoin or retinoic acid or vitamin A acid. Generally speaking, Retin-A in its various strengths and forms are used for treating acne and Renova is used to treat fine wrinkles, spotty skin discoloration and rough feeling skin. Because the active is the same though, doctors prescribe them interchangeably sometimes. Renova is often the choice for dryer skin.

Many clients, with a suggestion from a physician, have tried prescription strength retinoids like Retin-A and Renova to mitigate the visible effects of aging only to find themselves not using them. Here are, what I believe to be, the reasons for this:

1.    They experience irritation, called retinoid dermatitis; redness, swelling, breakouts, flaking etc. so they stop before improvement of condition/s can be seen. 

2.    They aren’t getting support on how to use this complex skin care product properly (or they have forgotten) to minimize the irritation and maximize results. No one is looking at their whole skin care routine.

3.    They don’t realize that this has to be ongoing. To get the results, the product has to be used. Stop using the product and the effects are lost.

4.    They are advised to use daily sunscreen or avoid sun and they know they will not.

5.    They realize they can no longer safely do waxing for facial hair removal.

6.    Buying and using such a product does not match their values.

I was surprised to read clinical trial data on Renova recently. 24% of patients saw moderate improvement in Fine Wrinkling (36% saw no improvement), 38% saw moderate improvement in Mottled Hyperpigmentation (35% saw no improvement) and 16% saw moderate improvement in Tactile Skin Roughness (49% saw no improvement). Most improvement in the categories was noted during the first 24 weeks of therapy and maintained thereafter with continued use. Details can be found here. Pretty lack-luster results for an expensive high-maintenance product with un-established safety when used for more than 48 weeks.

If, after consideration, you decide to proceed with one of these products, I suggest a 24 week trial to look for signs of improvement. During the trial, follow these best practices:

I don’t like the term anti-aging. I understand the desire to turn back the clock but we need to be graceful and accepting with some aspects of aging. Resist media messages and sales people that use this fear to sell. Many products simply cannot do the things they claim to be able to do! A balanced life that includes whole food nutrition, ample physical activity, and deep connections with family & friends is key to a beauty that reflects health. Intuitively we know this.

How do I decide what I will use in treatments and retail? It takes me a great deal of time. 
For every hour I have spent with my hands on a client I have logged countless more reading, researching and sampling products. My collaboration with my formulator offers me extra confidence, as she also does her homework and has been at this for 16 years.
 
Yes, there are synthetic ingredients that I avoid but the risks of some of them have been overblown--yet another way fear is used to market to women.
“Natural” is the buzzword of the decade and it is important to know that the term isn’t regulated. I chuckle when I see advertising washed in green knowing that it consists of very commonplace ingredients, synthetics included. “Organic” is a term that is regulated, though commonly used without the proper certification. Many ingredients in my own line have met this distinction. Equally important to me is that they perform well, are affordable to many and their ingredient lists are non-manipulated and honest.

Botanicals can reduce inflammation, irritation & hyperpigmentation, improve tone, stimulate collagen, reduce cellular damage and aid in detoxification. They can address all the concerns that come with aging. They work gently for gradual, dependable, beautiful and sustainable results!

With my clients, these are the points I usually make regarding sunscreen:

Daily sunscreen use is essential when trying to minimize hyper-pigmentation especially after more aggressive treatments using acids, including my vitamin c facial.

Apply your sunscreen after allowing your moisturizer to sink in. Ten minutes or more. Make-up can be layered immediately over it.

Mineral physical blockers zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have a long history of being friendly to the body and are especially nice for sensitive and allergic types. They are also still the most effective sunscreen ingredients to date against the full UV spectrum. You will see a white cast, especially for the first 10 minutes, but this will fade with a good formulation.

Still searching for a perfect sunscreen with only physical blockers with a matte, non-sticky, non-white finish? Me too. Meanwhile trust that the sticky occlusive nature of zinc oxide is partly why it is so effective. On days when you are wearing zinc you will need to make sure the cleanser you are using is removing it thoroughly.

An SPF 30 does not supply twice the protection of an SPF 15. SPF 30 blocks approximately 97% of UVB rays (when used as instructed) and SPF 15 blocks approximately 94%. Remember the numbers come from the length of time you can be exposed and not burn. SPF 30 allows you to be out 30 times as long as you could be unprotected.  In the US our SPF numbers are based on UVB only. Though since 2011 if the product is labeled “broad spectrum” it has been tested and protects against UVB and UVA. A certain percentage of the protection must be from UVA to qualify for this distinction. 

Colors that used to pop and give us a healthy glow are now getting neutralized or otherwise altered by the brown (hyperpigmentation) and red (couperose/rosacea) tones that many of us are seeing in our skin. Skin that isn't as uniform in color, firm, or reflective as it once was needs nourishing skin care and new ways to enhance with make-up. Today I will talk about blush make-up solutions.

My two favorite options are outlined below. In either case, take time to blend the second product into the first and build the color in translucent layers. Pause between layers and stop when it looks good. The goal is to suggest a natural flush. This takes surprisingly little product.